Honda Motorcycle Troubleshooting Searches:
CLUTCH INFORMAITON
The purpose of the clutch is to smoothly disengage and engage the engine from the rear wheel for starting, stopping and shifting gears. The clutch is a wet, multiple-disc clutch with steel plates and fiber (friction) plates stacked alternately in the clutch shell. The pack consists of seven fiber plates, seven steel plates, one narrow fiber plate, one damper spring and one damper spring seat. The fiber plates (clutch driving plates) are keyed to the clutch shell, which is driven by the engine through the primary chain. The steel plates (clutch driven plates) are keyed to the clutch hub, which drives the rear wheel through the transmission and secondary drive belt.
When the clutch is engaged (clutch lever released), the diaphragm spring applies strong force against the pressure plate. The pressure plate then presses the clutch plates together causing the plates to turn as a single unit. The result is that the rotational force of the clutch shell is transmitted through the clutch plates to the clutch hub. As long as the transmission is set in a forward gear, power from the engine will be transmitted to the rear wheel.
When the clutch is disengaged (clutch lever pulled to left handlebar grip), the pressure plate is pulled outward (by clutch cable action) against the diaphragm spring, thereby compressing the diaphragm spring. With the pressure plate retracted, strong inward force no longer squeezes the clutch plates together. The fiber plates are now free to rotate at a different relative speed than that of the steel plates (i.e. Slippage between the clutch plates occurs). The result is that the rotational force of the clutch shell is no longer fully transmitted through the "unlocked" clutch plates to the clutch hub. The engine is free to rotate at a different speed than the rear wheel.
CLUTCH TROUBLESHOOTING
CLUTCH SLIPS
- Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
- Check and adjust clutch release mechanism.
- Worn clutch plates.
- Check service wear limits. Replace plates.
CLUTCH DRAGS
- Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
- Check and adjust clutch release mechanism.
- Worn clutch release ramps or balls.
- Replace release ramps and/or balls.
- Warped clutch steel plates.
- Replace clutch steel plates.
- Blade worn or damaged clutch gear splines.
- Replace clutch gear or hub as required.
- Overfilled primary.
- Drain lubricant to correct level.
COMPRESSION TEST
Satisfactory engine performance depends upon a mechanically sound engine. In many cases, unsatisfactory performance is caused by combustion chamber leakage. A compression test can help determine the source of cylinder leakage. A proper compression test should be performed with the engine at normal operating temperature when possible.
1. Disconnect spark plug wires. Clean around spark plug base and remove spark plugs.
2. Connect CYLINDER COMPRESSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-33223-1) to front cylinder per manufacturer's instructions.
3. Make sure transmission is in neutral. With throttle plate in wide open position, crank engine continuously through 5 to 7 full compression strokes.
4. Note gauge readings at the end of the first and last compression strokes. Record test results.5. Connect CYLINDER COMPRESSION GAUGE to rear cylinder and repeat Steps 3 and 4.
a. Compression is normal if final readings are within the range specified in Table 3-22, and do not indicate more than a 10 psi (0.689 Bar) variance between cylinders.
b. If compression is below 100 psi (6.89 Bar) for 1100 cc engines or 150 psi (10.3 Bar) for 1200 cc engines.
6. Inject approximately 1/2 oz. (15 ml) SAE 30 engine oil into each cylinder and repeat the compression tests on both cylinders. Readings that are considerably higher during the second test indicate worn piston rings.
NOTE: After completing the compression test(s) and reinstalling the spark plugs, make sure the throttle plate is in the closed position before starting the engine.
COMPRESSION TEST RESULTS
RING TROUBLE
Compression low on first stroke, tends to build up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. Improves considerably when oil is added to cylinder.
VALVE TROUBLE
Compression low on first stroke, does not build up much on following strokes. Does not improve considerably with the addition of oil. Check for correct pushrod length.
HEAD GASKET LEAK
Same reaction as valve trouble.
CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
The cylinder leakage test pinpoints engine problems including leaking valves, worn, broken or stuck piston rings and blown head gaskets.The cylinder leakage tester applies compressed air to the cylinder at a controlled pressure and volume and measures the percent of leakage from the cylinder. Use CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTER and follow the specific instructions supplied with the tester. The following are some general instructions that apply to Honda motorcycle engines:
1. Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Stop engine. Clean dirt from around spark plugs and remove the spark plugs.
3. Remove the air cleaner and set the throttle in the wide open position.
4. The piston in the cylinder being tested must be at top dead center of compression stroke (both valves closed) during the test.
5. To keep the engine from turning over when air pressure is applied to the cylinder, engage transmission in fifth gear and lock the rear brake.
NOTE: Before performing the cylinder leakage test, verify that the tester itself is free from leakage to obtain the most accurate test results. With a soap solution [applied around all tester fittings],
connect the cylinder leakdown tester to the compressed air source and look for any bubbles that would indicate leakage from the tester.
6. Following the manufacturer's instructions, perform a cylinder leakage test on the front cylinder. Make a note of the percent of leakage. Leakage greater than 12% indicates internal engine problems.
7. Listen for air leaks at induction module intake, exhaust pipe and head gasket. Air escaping through the induction module indicates a leaking intake valve. Air escaping through the exhaust pipe indicates a leaking exhaust valve.
NOTE: If air is escaping through valves, check push rod length.
8. Repeat procedure on rear cylinder.
NOTE: After completing the cylinder leakage test(s) and reinstalling the spark plugs, make sure the throttle plate is in the closed position before starting the engine.
DIAGNOSING SMOKING ENGINE OR HIGH OIL CONSUMPTION
Check Prior to Cylinder Head Removal
1. Oil tank overfilled.
2. Oil carryover.
3. Breather hose restricted.
4. Restricted oil filter.
Check After Cylinder Head Removal
1. Oil return passages for clogging.
2. Valve guide seals.
3. Valve guide to valve stem clearance.
4. Gasket surface of both head and cylinder.
5. Cylinder head casting's porosity allowing oil to drain into combustion chamber.
6. O-ring damaged or missing from oil pump/crankcase junction.
When an engine needs repair, it is not always possible to determine definitely beforehand whether repair is possible with only cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons disassembled, or whether complete engine disassembly is required for crankcase repair.
Most commonly, only cylinder head and cylinder repair is needed (valves, rings, piston, etc.), and it is recommended procedure to service these units first, allowing engine crankcase to remain in frame. Follow the procedure outlined in TOP END OVERHAUL: DISASSEMBLY, Stripping Motorcycle for Top End Repair, to strip motorcycle for removal of cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons.
After disassembling "upper end" only, it may be found that crankcase repair is necessary; this requires removal of engine crankcase from chassis outlined in REMOVING ENGINE FROM CHASSIS.
OIL LAMP - OIL LIGHT TROUBLESHOOTING
OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LAMP
Stays on at speeds above idle.
• Empty oil tank.
• Clogged feed line (ice and sludge, freezing temperatures).
• Air-bound oil line.
• Grounded oil pressure switch wire.
• Malfunctioning oil pressure switch.
• Diluted oil.
• Malfunctioning check valve.
• Malfunctioning or improperly installed pressure relief valve.
Flickers at idle.
• Incorrect idle speed. Malfunctioning or improperly installed check valve.
• Malfunctioning or improperly installed pressure relief valve.
Does not glow when ignition is turned on (prior to operating engine).
• Malfunctioning signal switch.
• Malfunction in wiring.
• Burned-out signal bulb.
• Dead battery.
ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING
The Troubleshooting section is a guide to diagnose problems. Read the appropriate sections of your Honda manual before performing any work. Improper repair and/or maintenance could result in death or serious injury. The following check list of possible operating troubles and their probable causes will be helpful in keeping a motorcycle in good operating condition. More than one of these conditions may be causing the trouble and all should be carefully checked.
ENGINE
Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does Not Turn Engine Over
1. Engine run switch in OFF position.
2. Ignition switch not in IGNITION position.
3. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections (solenoid chatters).
4. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning clutch slipping.
6. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and ignition switch not cycled OFF then back to IGNITION position.
7. Security system activated.
8. Motorcycle in gear and clutch not pulled in.
9. Main fuse not in place.
10. Jiffy stand down and transmission in gear.
Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Plugged fuel injectors.
4. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose or cables connected to incorrect cylinders.
7. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty coil, ECM or sensors (TMAP, CKP).
8. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled OFF then back to IGNITION.
9. Damaged wire or loose wire connection at ignition coil, battery or ECM connector.
10. Sticking or damaged valve(s) or wrong length push rod(s).
11. Engine lubricant too heavy (winter operation).
NOTE: For cold weather starts, always disengage clutch.
Starts Hard
1. Spark plugs in bad condition, have improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery nearly discharged.
4. Damaged wire or loose wire connection at battery terminal, ignition coil or ECM connector.
5. Ignition not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
6. Faulty ignition coil.
7. Fuel tank filler cap vent plugged or fuel line closed off restricting fuel flow.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Partially plugged fuel injectors.
11. Valves sticking.
12. Air cleaner EVAP flapper (if equipped) stuck close or inoperative.
13. Engine lubricant too heavy (winter operation).
NOTE: For cold weather starts, always disengage clutch.
Starts But Runs Irregularly or Misses
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting or leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, ECM, or sensor (TMAP, CKP, ET or O2).
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose connection at battery terminals, ignition coil or ECM connector.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Water or dirt in fuel system.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
10. Air leak at intake manifold or air cleaner.
11. Partially plugged fuel injectors.
12. Damaged intake or exhaust valve(s).
13. Weak or broken valve springs.
14. Incorrect valve timing.
15. Air cleaner EVAP flapper (if equipped) stuck closed or inoperative.
Spark Plug Fouls Repeatedly
1. Incorrect spark plug.
2. Piston rings badly worn or broken.
3. Fuel mixture too rich.
4. Valve guides or seals badly worn or damaged.
Pre-Ignition or Detonation (Knocks or Pings)
1. Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or in combustion chamber.
2. Incorrect heat range spark plug.
3. Faulty spark plug(s).
4. Ignition timing advanced. ECM or sensors (CKP, ET or TMAP) defective.
5. Fuel octane rating too low.
6. Intake manifold vacuum leak.
Check Engine Light Illuminates During Operation
Overheating
1. Insufficient oil supply or oil not circulating.
2. Insufficient air flow over engine.
3. Leaking valve(s).
4. Heavy carbon deposits.
5. Ignition timing retarded. ECM or sensor (CKP, TMAP) defective.
Valve Train Noise
1. Low oil pressure caused by oil feed pump not functioning properly or oil passages obstructed.
2. Faulty hydraulic lifter(s).
3. Bent push rod(s).
4. Incorrect push rod length.
5. Cam(s), cam gear(s), or cam bushing(s) worn.
6. Rocker arm binding on shaft.
7. Valve sticking in guide.
Excessive Vibration
1. Stabilizer links worn or loose, or stabilizer link brackets loose or broken.
2. Isolators worn or isolator bolts loose or broken.
3. Isolator mounting brackets (left side of vehicle) loose or broken.
4. Rubber mounts loose or worn.
5. Rear fork pivot shaft fasteners loose.
6. Front engine mounting bolts loose.
7. Exhaust system binding or hitting frame.
8. Engine/transmission and rear wheel not aligned properly.
9. Broken frame.
10. Ignition timing advanced due to faulty sensor inputs (CKP, TMAP)/poorly tuned engine.
11. Primary chain badly worn or links tight as a result of insufficient lubrication or misalignment.
12. Wheels not aligned, rims bent, or tires worn or damaged.
13. Internal engine problem.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil Does Not Return To Oil Tank
1. Oil tank empty.
2. Oil pump gerotors damaged; oil pump not functioning.
3. Restricted oil hoses or fittings.
4. Restricted oil filter.
Engine Uses Too Much Oil Or Smokes Excessively
1. Piston rings badly worn or broken.
2. Valve guide(s) or seal(s) worn or damaged.
3. Restricted oil filter.
4. Oil tank overfilled.
5. Restricted oil return hose to tank.
6. Restricted breather operation.
7. Plugged crankcase scavenge port.
8. Oil diluted with gasoline.
Engine Leaks Oil From Cases, Push Rods, Hoses, Etc.
1. Loose parts.
2. Imperfect seal at gaskets, push rod cover, washers, etc.
3. Restricted oil return hose to tank.
4. Restricted breather passage(s) to air cleaner.
5. Restricted oil filter.
6. Oil tank overfilled.
7. Porosity.
Low Oil Pressure
1. Oil tank underfilled.
2. Faulty low oil pressure switch.
3. Worn oil pump gerotor(s).
4. Worn pinion shaft drive gear.
5. Restricted feed hose from oil tank.
6. Restricted high-pressure feed hose to oil filter housing.
7. Oil diluted with gasoline.
8. Oil bypass plunger stuck open.
High Oil Pressure
1. Oil tank overfilled.
2. Restricted oil tank return hose.
3. Oil bypass plunger stuck closed.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Alternator Does Not Charge
1. Voltage regulator module not grounded.
2. Engine ground wire loose or broken.
3. Faulty voltage regulator module.
4. Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
5. Faulty stator and/or rotor.
Alternator Charge Rate Is Below Normal
1. Weak or damaged battery.
2. Loose connections.
3. Faulty voltage regulator module.
4. Faulty stator and/or rotor.
Speedometer Operates Erratically
1. Contaminated vehicle speed sensor (remove sensor and clean off metal particles).
2. Loose connections.
TRANSMISSION
Shifts Hard
1. Clutch dragging slightly.
2. Transmission lubricant level too high.
3. Transmission lubricant too heavy (winter operation).
4. Shifter return spring (inside primary chaincase) bent or broken.
5. Bent shifter rod.
6. Shifter forks sprung or damaged.
7. Corners worn off gear dogs and shifter dog rings.
Jumps Out Of Gear
1. Shifter engaging parts (inside transmission) badly worn and rounded.
2. Shifter forks bent.
3. Shifter drum damaged/worn.
4. Damaged gears.
Clutch Slips
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Worn friction plates.
3. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
Clutch Drags Or Does Not Release
1. Lubricant level too high in primary chaincase.
2. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
3. Clutch plates warped.
4. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
5. Primary chain badly misaligned or too tight.
Clutch Chatters
Friction plates or steel plates worn, warped or dragging.
HANDLING
1. Tires improperly inflated. See TIRES AND WHEELS. Do not overinflate.
2. Loose wheel axle nuts. Tighten to recommended torque specification.
3. Improper vehicle alignment: rear wheel out of alignment with frame and front wheel.
4. Rims and tires out-of-true sideways.
5. Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with hub.
6. Loose spokes (models with laced wheels).
7. Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear.
8. Damaged tires or improper front-rear tire combination.
9. Tire and wheel unbalanced.
10. Steering head bearings improperly adjusted or pitted or worn bearings and races.
11. Shock absorbers damaged or worn and not functioning normally.
12. Heavy front end loading. Non-standard equipment on the front end (such as heavy radio receivers, extra lighting equipment, or luggage) tends to cause unstable handling.
13. Engine mounts and/or stabilizer links loose, worn or damaged.
14. Rear fork pivot assembly: improperly tightened or assembled, or loose, pitted or damaged pivot bearings.
BRAKES
Brake Does Not Hold Normally
1. Master cylinder reservoir low on fluid, system leaking or pads worn.
2. Brake system contains air bubbles.
3. Master cylinder or caliper piston seals worn or parts damaged.
4. Brake pads contaminated with grease or oil.
5. Brake pads badly worn.
6. Brake disc badly worn or warped.
7. Brake drags - insufficient brake pedal or hand lever freeplay, caliper piston worn or damaged, or excessive brake fluid in reservoir.
8. Brake fades due to heat build up - brake pads dragging or excessive braking.
9. Brake fluid leak when under pressure.
