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1965-1978 Johnson Evinrude 1.5 to 35 HP Service Repair Manual

1973 1990 Johnson Evinrude 2 to 40 HP Service Manual 2/4-Stroke Outboard

1973-1990 Johnson Evinrude Outboard 48 - 235 HP Workshop Manual 2/4-STROKE

1990-2001 Johnson Evinrude Outboard 1.25 HP To 70 HP Manual 2/4-Stroke

1992 2001 JOHNSON EVINRUDE 65 to 300 HP Workshop Manual 2 & 4 STROKE

2007 Johnson Evinrude 30 HP Service Manual 4-STROKE

2007 Johnson Evinrude 25 HP Service Manual 4-STROKE

2007 Johnson Evinrude 9 HP - 15 HP Service Manual 4-STROKE

2007 Johnson Evinrude 9 HP - 15 HP Service Manual 2-STROKE

2007 Johnson Evinrude 2.5 HP Service Manual 4-STROKE

2007 Evinrude 115, 150, 175, 200 HP 60 degrees V models Service Manual 2-STROKE

2007 Evinrude 75, 90 HP Service Repair Manual 2-STROKE

2007 Johnson 4, 5, 6 HP Service Repair Manual 4-STROKE

2007 Evinrude 40, 50, 60 HP Service Repair Manual

2007 Evinrude 200, 225, 250 HP Service Repair Manual

The Johnson-Evinrude Workshop manual downloads for the above listed models describes the service procedures for the complete vehicle. Follow the Maintenance Schedule recommendations to ensure that the outboard is in peak operating condition. Performing the scheduled maintenance is very important. It compensates for the initial wear that occurs during the life of the outboard motor.
 
All chapters in the Workshop Manual apply to the whole vehicle and illustrates procedures for removal/installation of components that are in detailed step-by-step fashion.
 
Most all Workshop manual chapters start with an assembly or system illustration, diagrams, exploded parts view, pictures, service information and troubleshooting for the section. The subsequent pages give detailed procedures.


1973 1990 Johnson Evinrude 2 to 40 HP Service Manual Outboard

Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Outboard For 2, 2.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 6, 7.5, 8, 9.5, 9.9, 15, 18, 20, 25, 28, 30, 35, 40 HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboards Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke models.

1973-1990 Johnson Evinrude Service Manual 48 235 HP Outboard & Sea Drives

Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 Outboard & Sea Drive (Sea Drives) For 48 50 55 60 65 70 75 85 88 90 100 110 115 120 135 140 150 175 185 200 225 & 235 HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboard & Sea Drive Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke models.

1973-1991 Johnson Evinrude Outboard 60 HP-235 HP Workshop Manual 2-STROKE

1973-1991 Johnson Evinrude Service Repair Manual Application: 60 Hp, 3 cyl 1986-1991 - 65 Hp, 3 cyl 1973 - 70 Hp, 3 cyl 1974-1991 - 75 Hp, 3 cyl 1975-1985 - 85 Hp, V4 1973-1980 - 90 Hp, V4 1981-1991 - 100 Hp, V4 1979 1980 - 115 Hp, V4 1973-1984 - 115 Hp, V4 1990 1991 - 120 Hp, V4 1985-1991 - 135 Hp, V4 1973-1976 - 140 Hp, V4 1977-1991 - 150 Hp, V6 1978-1991 - 175 Hp, V6 1977-1983 - 175 Hp, V6 1986-1991 - 185 Hp, V6 1984 1985 - 200 Hp, V6 1976-1983 - 200 Hp, V6 1986-1991 - 225 Hp, V6 1986-1991 - 235 Hp, V6 1978-1985

1990-2001 Johnson-Evinrude 1 HP To 70 HP Service Manual 2-Stroke & 4 Stroke

Johnson - Evinrude Service Manual Application: 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 Outboard For 1-Hp, 2-HP, 2.3-HP, 3.3-Hp, 3.5-HP, 4-HP, 5-HP, 6-HP, 6.5-HP, 8-HP, 9.9-HP, 10-HP, 14-HP, 15-HP, 18 JET, 20-HP, 25-HP, 25D, 28-HP, 30-HP 35-HP, 40-HP, 45-HP, 50-HP, 55-HP, 60-HP, 65-HP, 70-HP (Horsepower - Horse Power) Outboards Marine Engine Johnson/Evinrude 2Stroke 2-Stroke Two Stroke & 4Stroke 4-Stroke Four Stroke 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001 models.

1992-2001 Johnson Evinrude 65-300 HP Service Manual Application:

4-CYLINDER ENGINE/MOTOR MODELS/YEARS COVERED: 65HP-65 HP Jet 1992, 1993, 1994 & 1995 - 80HP-80 HP Jet 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996 & 1997 - 85HP-85 HP 1992 to1995 - 88HP-88 HP 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 & 1996 - 90HP-90 HP 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 & 1998 - 100HP-100 HP 1992 to 1997 - 112HP-112 HP SPL 1994 to 1996 - 115HP-115 HP 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 & 1998 - 75HP-75 HP 2001 - 80HP-80 HP JET 1998, 1999, 2000 & 2001 - 90HP 90 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000 & 2001 - 100HP 100 1998 to 2001 - 105HP 105 Com 1997 to 2001 - 115HP 115 1995 to 2001 - 120HP 120 1992 to 1994 - 130HP 130 1994 to 2000 - 135HP 135 2001 - 140Hp 140 1992 to 1994

6-CYLINDER ENGINE/MOTOR MODELS/YEARS COVERED: - 105HP 105 JET 1992-2001 - 135HP 135 2001 - 150HP 150 1992-2001 - 175HP 175 1992-2001 - 185HP 185 1992-1994 - 200HP 200 1992-2001 - 225HP 225 2001 - 250HP 250 1999-2001

8-CYLINDER ENGINE/MOTOR MODELS/YEARS COVERED: 250HP 250 1992-1998 - 300HP 300 1992-1995

 


Service Manual, Repair Manual, Workshop Manual, Engine Repair Guide, Outboard Motors, Johnson 4-Stroke Engine, Evinrude 2 Stroke Engines Rebuild Kit, Engine Overhaul, Years 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2007, Engine Will Not Start, Engine Will Crank But Not Turn Over, Engine Will Stall After Starting, Outboard Motor Grinds When In Gear, Motor Smokes Blue Smoke, Excessive White Smoke, Black Smoke Puring Out Of Engine, Outboar Engine Overheating, Motor Overheats, Specifications, Specs, Eigne Specs, Spark Plug, Spark Plug Gap, Which Spark Plugs Type, Part, Parts Online, Rebuilt Parts, Oem Parts, Parts Location


You can compare the major components of an outboard with the engine

and drivetrain of your car or truck. In doing so, the powerhead is the

equivalent of the engine and the gearcase is the equivalent of your drivetrain

(the

the power necessary to move the'vehicle, while the gearcask is thk

assembly that transmits that power via gears, shafts and a propeller (instead

of tires).

Speaking in this manner, the powerhead is the "engine" or "motor" portion

of your outboard. It is an assembly of long-life components that are protected

through proper maintenance. Lubrication, the use of high-quality oils (2-

stroke or 4-stroke) and proper fuelioil ratios (2-stroke) or frequent oil

inspectionlchanges (4-stroke) are the most important ways to preserve

powerhead condition. Similarly, proper tune-ups that help maintain proper

airlfuel mixture ratios and prevent pinging, knocking or other potentially

damaging operating conditions are the next best way to preserve your motor.

But, even given the best of conditions, components in a motor begin wearing

the first time the motor is started and will continue to do so over the life of

the powerhead.

Eventually, all powerheads will require some repair. The particular broken

or worn component, plus the age and overall condition of the motor may help

dictate whether a small repair or major overhaul is warranted. The complexity

of the job will vary with 2 major factors. As much as you can generalize

about mechanical work:

transmissionltransaxle~T. he powerhead is the assemblv that produces

*

the more difficult the repair

The larger and more complex the motor, the more difficult the repair.

Again, these are generalizations and, working carefully, a skilled do-ityourself

boater can disassemble and repair a

as a seasoned professional. But both DlYers and professionals must know

their limits. These days, many professionals will leave portions of machine

work (from cylinder block and piston disassembly, clean and inspection to

honing and assembly up to a machinist). This is not because they are not

capable of the task, but because that's what a machinist does day in and day

out. A machinist is naturally going to be more experienced with the

procedures.

If a complete powerhead overhaul is necessary on your outboard, we

recommend that you find a local machine shop that has both an excellent

reputation and that specializes in marine work. This is just as important and

handv a resource to the ~rofessionaal s a DIYer. If ~ossiblec. onsult with the

machke shop before disassembly to make sure you follow procedures or

mark components, as they would desire. Some machine shops would prefer

to perform the disassembly themselves. In these cases, you can usually

remove the powerhead from the gearcase and deliver the entire unit to the

shop for disassembly, inspection, machining and assembly.

If you decide to perform the entire overhaul yourself, proceed slowly,

taking care to following instructions closely. Consider using a digital camera

(if available) to help document assemblies during the removal and

disassembly procedures. This can be especially helpful if the overhaul or

rebuild is going to take place over an extended amount of time. If this is your

first overhaul, don't even THINK about trying to get it done in one weekend,

YOU WON'T. It is better to proceed slowly, asking help when necessary from

your trusted parts counterman or a tech with experience on these motors.

Keep in mind that anytime pistons, rings and bearings have been

replaced, the powerhead must be broken-in again, as if it were a brand-new

motor. Once a major overhaul is completed, refer to the section on

Powerhead Break-In for details on how to ensure the rings set properly

without damage or scoring to the new cylinder wall or the piston surfaces.

Careful break-in or a properly overhauled motor will ensure many years of

service for the trusty powerhead.

The age of the motor (the older OR less well maintained the motor is)70 hp EFI powerhead, as well

 

+

See Figure 1

The gearcase is considered that part of the outboard below the

midsectioniexhaust housing. The gearcase contains the propeller shaft, the

driven and pinion gears, the driveshaft from the powerhead and the water

pump. On models equipped with shifting capabilities, the fonvard and reverse

gears, together with the clutch, shift assembly, and related linkage, are all

housed within the case.

The single most important task for proper gearcase maintenance is

inspecting it for signs of leakage after each use. If oil can get out, then water

can get in. And, water, mixing with or replacing the oil in the gearcase will

wreak havoc with the shafts and gears contained within the housinq.

The second most important task for proper gearcase maintenance is

checkinq and maintainina the oil inside the case. Not onlv is it im~ortantto

make sire the oil is at t k proper level (not above or below), but it is

important to check the oil for signs of contamination from moisture. Water

entering the gearcase will usually cause the oil to turn a slightly milky-white

color. Also, significant amounts of water mixed with the oil will give the

appearance of an overfilled condition.

If you suspect water in the gearcase, start by draining and closely

inspecting the fluid (refer to the procedures found in the Maintenance and

Tune-Up section). Then, refill the unit with fresh oil and test the outboard (by

using it!). Watch the fluid level closely after the test, and for the first few

outings. If any oil leaks out or water enters, either the propeller shaft seal

must be replaced or the gearcase must be disassembled, inspected and

completely overhauled. To be honest, a complete overhaul is recommended,

because corrosion and damage may have occurred if moisture was in the

gearcase long enough. But, in some cases, if the leak was caught in time,

and there is no significant wear, damage or corrosion in the gearcase, the

propeller shaft seal can usually be replaced with the gearcase still installed

to the outboard.

The last, most important task you can perform to help keep your gearcase

in top shape, is to flush the inside and outside of the aearcase after each

use.'~inseth e outside of the unit with a hose to remove any sea life, salt,

chemicals or other corrosion inducing substances that you may have picked

up in the water. Cleaning the gearcase will also help you spot potential

Fig.

maximum efficiency, compared with a unit receiving TLC (tender

loving care)

1 A neglected lower unit cannot be expected to perform to

trouble, such as gearcase oil leaks, cracks or damage that may have

occurred during use. Remove any sand, silt or dirt that could potentially

damage seals or clog passages. Once you've rinsed the outside, hook up a

flushing device and do the same for the inside. Again, details are found in

the Maintenance and Tune-up section, look under Flushing the Cooling

System.

REMOVAL

& INSTALLATION

The most common reason for removrng and installing the gearcase

perform service (inspect or replace) the water pump impeller. On all motors

except the 2.0-3.5 hp (78cc) motors, the water pump is found on the

IS to

gearcase-to-midsection

housing) split line. On 2.0-3.5 hp (78cc) motors the pump is mounted just in

front of the propeller, so the gearcase does not have to be removed on these

small motors in order to service the pump.

Removal and installation ~roceduresa re ~rovidedh ere for each of the

gearcases used on these ~&nson/~vinrude'motorsE. xploded views are also

provided, in case disassembly and overhaul are required.

(sometimes known as the intermediate or exhaust

ColtiJunior (43cc) Motors

+ See Figures 2 and 3

1. For safety, disconnect the spark plug lead, then ground it to the

cylinder head.

2. If necessary for service or access, remove the propeller, for details

refer to the procedure in the Maintenance and Tune-Up section.

3. Remove the two screws securing the lower unit to the exhaust

housing.

4. Taking Care not to damage the driveshaft and the water tube,

separate the lower unit from the exhaust housing by pulling straight

downward.

5.

gearcase.

6. Thoroughly inspect the gearcase and exhaust housing for signs of

damage. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and free of debris,

corrosion or damage.

If necessary for service or overhaul, drain the gear oil from the

To install:

7. Apply a light coating of OMC Moly Lube, or equivalent assembly

lubricant to the driveshaft splines. Be sure to coat only the SIDES of the

splines and not the top of the shaft, as that could hydraulically prevent the

driveshaft from fully seating in the crankshaft spline.

8. Apply a light coat of clean liquid soap to the water tube grommet.

9. Apply a light coating of OMC Nut Lock, or equivalent threadlock to

the threads of the 2 gearcase mounting screws.

10. Install the gearcase, while carefully aligning the water tube in the

arommet and the driveshaft s~linesto the crankshaft shaft. If necessarv, turn

?he propeller shaft slowly clockwise (when viewed from the shaft end)

io

align the splines.